Jojo Chang: See/Seafood, July 10, 2025

NOAA Teacher at Sea

Jojo Chang

Aboard  Bell M. Shimada

June 30 – July 15, 2025

Mission: Integrated West Coast Pelagics Survey (Leg 2)

Geographic Area of Cruise: Pacific Ocean, California Coast

Date: July 10, 2025

portrait photo of Jojo wearing a Teacher at Sea beanie, a Teacher at Sea t-shirt, a raincoat, and gloves with cut off fingers. She's on the aft deck an flashes a peace sign with her right hand.
TAS Jojo Chang

Weather Data from the Bridge

It’s noon, and the weather is cloudy and foggy.  We are passing the coastal city of Carmel, California, but only a tiny sliver of land is visible from the ship.  We are sounding the fog horn and traveling slowly. Currently, the air temperature is 54.5 degrees Fahrenheit, and the wind speed is 14 knots.

Culinary: Art and Science

Let’s talk about Chef Phil, the Chief Steward on board. First things first: we are eating very well out here. And by “well,” I mean gourmet-level delicious. Chef Phil is a culinary artist, crafting remarkable meals that blend creativity and technique, even as the ship rocks and rolls like a theme park ride.

portrait photo of a man wearing a black baseball cap and a black and red apron. He stands in the mess hall with his hands resting on the backs of two dining chairs. Superimposed on the photo are the words: Phil / Chief Steward
Chef Phil Jones

His knife skills? Let’s just say they’re literally “rolling with it.” That’s how he describes chopping food at sea—adjusting in real-time to the ship’s motion.

Chef Phil has a rich background in the culinary world. He once spent six months perfecting the art of sushi rice with Morimoto, the world-renowned Japanese culinarian (made famous for his role on the TV series Iron Chef). Phil has also cooked for Disney at the Hilton Orlando and aboard multiple cruise lines.

Photo of a computer screen displaying the breakfast, lunch, and dinner menus in three columns. The dinner list is Louisiana themed: "duck & andouille gumbo, gator nuggets w/remi, blackened shrimp, dirty rice, cheddar grits, succotash"
Sample daily menu . YES! We did have real gator nuggets.

“I’m not looking for a Michelin Star,” he says. “I just love what I do.”

view of a metal cafetaria bar with the dinner items in removable metal trays. we can see gumbo, nuggets, shrimp, and other dishes beyond.
Louisiana dinner menu

And that love shows—every single day. His food doesn’t just nourish, it brings joy. Thank you, Chef Phil, for making this ship’s mess hall taste like world class cuisine. It’s not a Michelin Star, but I’d give you five Shimada Stars. Chef Phil is assisted by Ted in the mess hall, preparing three amazing meals every day.

portrait of a man wearing a blue baseball cap and making a shaka sign with his left hand. he is standing in the galley.
Ted Partosan: Kitchen assistant

Market Squid

In the wet lab, we encounter the ocean food web on a very real level every day with each trawl that comes up from the depths of the sea.   It’s one thing to read about the food web; it’s an entirely different thing to see the organisms arrive in a basket for dissection and inspection. You should know that before I came on this boat, I had only dissected (reluctantly) one small frog in high school biology class. In college and graduate work, I studied education and American literature.  There was nothing in my Captain Ahab/Moby Dick thesis paper that prepared me for this experience except background research into the Nantucket whaling industry of the 1800s.   

Now, my scalpel skills have become quite remarkable. I have seen the insides of hundreds of hake fish and preserved many an ear bone for science.  Inside, I’m telling myself, “I can do hard (and often gross) things.” When I say this is a life-changing experience, I’m not kidding. It is life-changing because of the wonder and amazingness of the life force of the underwater world, which is both fascinating and mysterious.  I loved the ocean before I came out here, but now I’m just blown away by the life and living creatures that are under the sea.  

One creature that comes into the wet lab regularly is the market squid.  At first, they seem rather ordinary, but on further inspection, these creatures have the most beautiful pink, yellow, and brown random polka-dotted pattern.  It turns out that this crazy cool feature is called chromatophores (cells that produce color) , and cephalopods use them to communicate, camouflage, and attract a mate.  

Most days, we haul in 100s of these remarkable sea squids.  The magic can be seen by tapping them lightly, and watching as the polka dots appear. The transformation is fleeting, but amazing.  Unfortunately, it is an important feature for live squid, and as they die, they lose the chromatophores.  

close up view of the skin of a squid; it has a translucent background but is covered in magenta spots of varying intensity
Chromatophores on market squid.
Video showing how the polka dots magically appear and disappear.

Fish Vocabulary

So, I have all these new science friends, and at first, they seem like totally normal ocean-loving people—you know, the kind who go on coastal vacations, talk about scuba diving, and swap fishing stories. But get them into the wet lab? Suddenly, it’s like flipping a switch. These folks light up over fish ovaries, otoliths, and fin clips like they just unwrapped an Apple Watch on Christmas morning—or scored Tiffany diamonds from a secret admirer. I’ve never seen someone so genuinely thrilled to dissect a hake fish. It’s both impressive and slightly shocking. However, what I see with everyone on board, from the deck crew to the engineers, is joy in their occupation.  There’s a passion and a purpose to what they are doing that is both impressive and heartwarming.

Before arriving on this boat, I had never heard of an otolith, aka oties.  This is a fish ear stone or ear bone, and is the most commonly used item for understanding the age of a fish. Scientists count the rings on a pair of otoliths to age a fish much like they count the rings on tree. Ear stones and tree rings are like nature’s timekeepers and just as trees lay down a new ring each year as they grow, many fish form growth rings on their otoliths. These rings can be counted to estimate the fish’s age, offering a biological calendar etched in bone.

Both items that appear in Mother Nature’s patterns reflect changes in growth rate, which are influenced by environmental conditions. For trees, wider rings typically suggest years of good rainfall and favorable climate, while narrow rings indicate harsher times. Similarly, in fish, the spacing between otolith rings can vary depending on water temperature, food availability, and seasonal changes. Scientists aboard NOAA ships collect fish oties because they tell a hidden story about the life history and environment of the organism.

These ear bones are important to living fish for other reasons. According to NOAA Fisheries, “Otoliths are part of the fish’s inner ear, allowing fish to hear and sense vibrations in the water and providing a sense of balance so they may better navigate their surroundings.” Once, when my children were small, we had a pet fish named “Bubbles”. Bubbles swam upside down. I guess he must have had an otie issue.

Animals recently spotted from the ship or in the wet lab 

Common dolphin, Risso’s dolphin, rockfish, dogfish shark, strawberry squid, baby octopus, hake, butterfish, anchovy, market squid, king of the salmon

Live dogfish shark on board.
Three women work together to hold up a rather long, perhaps 4 ft, narrow fish with a large eye above a large bin of much smaller fish. The women all wear bright orange or yellow foul weather gear, personal flotation devices, and hard hats. Jojo stands at left and holds the fish's tail; the two other women hold the middle and the head. in the background, through a doorway, we see two other science team members and a portion of the trawl net.
Bringing in a ribbon fish known as king of the salmon. This is fish is not a salmon but is named such because of the legend that it leads salmon to its spawning area.

Works Cited

National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. “Age and Growth.” NOAA Fisheries, 28 Feb. 2025, https://www.fisheries.noaa.gov/national/science-data/age-and-growth.

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